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Creating My Art
Step 1: Design
Whether I am creating my own design or a custom design for a client, I begin by creating a line drawing to
scale. For my own work, I usually design the backgrounds as I work, whereas a custom design is drawn
out completely.
After the substrate is prepared, the line drawing is then transferred to the sealed plywood or concrete
board. This serves as a guide for placing the individual cut tiles.
For custom designs, I work with the client in selecting tile colors based on the color palette I normally use;
DalTile or American Olean semi-gloss and/or decorative wall/counter tile. Not all tile manufacturers offer
the vivid range of colors I prefer to work with. The line drawing is usually hand painted (matching the
actual tile colors as close as possible), and the painting is then submitted to the client for review, any
changes, and final approval. For my own designs, the selection of color is made as I work.
Step 2: Substrate & Sealing
Wall Art: The majority of my wall art use 3/4" 5-7 ply oak/maple or birch/maple plywood. This high-quality
plywood is virtually knot/blemish free, well sanded, and is warp-resistant. The plywood is then sealed (all
sides and edges) with Red Guard; a water-proofing product that is non-fracturing resistant.
Table Tops: I use the same plywood described under Wall Art. I then attach a 1/4" Hardiboard concrete
board to the plywood. Any exposed joints/seams are filled with ThinSet mortar. Once dried, the mortar is
sanded for a smooth finish.
Step 3: Patterns & Cutting
Using my line drawing, I cut individual patterns. The maximum size of the tiles I use most are 4 1/4" x 4
1/4", so the pattern I create must fit within those boundaries. I then trace the pattern onto the tile with a
grease pencil, and the tile is then cut by hand using a wet band saw designed for cutting tile. The cut tile
is then placed upon the substrate into the correct location.
The pattern tracing and cutting continues until the entire design is finished. It is almost like working with a
puzzle—all pieces work together to achieve connection and flow.
Step 4: Gluing
Each piece is completely floated with ThinSet mortar and placed into position one tile at a time. I do not
take short cuts, which means I do not do spot-gluing, nor do I use adhesives that are not designed for
laying tile. Depending upon the manufacturers specifications, the ThinSet can take from 24 to 36 hours
to cure.
Step 5: Grouting & Sealing
Because my joint size is typically less than 1/8", I use a non-sanded grout. Non-sanded grout is not
abrasive and is smooth to the touch.
The majority of my artwork uses charcoal or black grout. I use powder and not products that provide one-
step applications. The charcoal/black grout sets off my designs and helps to pop the colors.
Once the grout has dried a few hours, the tile is washed and any grout haze is removed. Once the grout
has fully cured, it is sealed with a professional grade grout sealer to resist staining and moisture. If the
piece is not used outdoors, the sealer will hold up for 2-5 years without the need to reseal. If used
outdoors and subject to moisture, the grout should be resealed a minimum of once per year.
Step 6: Finishing the Artwork
The back side of the wall art or table top is the sealed plywood. I then take additional steps to finish the
project. The back is painted with an exterior satin enamel (usually black). Once dry, I sign and date the
piece. The final step is to apply a clear polyacrylic coating. When all is dry, cleaned, and buffed, the
artwork is ready to go.
Step 1: Design
Whether I am creating my own design or a custom design for a client, I begin by creating a line drawing to
scale. For my own work, I usually design the backgrounds as I work, whereas a custom design is drawn
out completely.
After the substrate is prepared, the line drawing is then transferred to the sealed plywood or concrete
board. This serves as a guide for placing the individual cut tiles.
For custom designs, I work with the client in selecting tile colors based on the color palette I normally use;
DalTile or American Olean semi-gloss and/or decorative wall/counter tile. Not all tile manufacturers offer
the vivid range of colors I prefer to work with. The line drawing is usually hand painted (matching the
actual tile colors as close as possible), and the painting is then submitted to the client for review, any
changes, and final approval. For my own designs, the selection of color is made as I work.
Step 2: Substrate & Sealing
Wall Art: The majority of my wall art use 3/4" 5-7 ply oak/maple or birch/maple plywood. This high-quality
plywood is virtually knot/blemish free, well sanded, and is warp-resistant. The plywood is then sealed (all
sides and edges) with Red Guard; a water-proofing product that is non-fracturing resistant.
Table Tops: I use the same plywood described under Wall Art. I then attach a 1/4" Hardiboard concrete
board to the plywood. Any exposed joints/seams are filled with ThinSet mortar. Once dried, the mortar is
sanded for a smooth finish.
Step 3: Patterns & Cutting
Using my line drawing, I cut individual patterns. The maximum size of the tiles I use most are 4 1/4" x 4
1/4", so the pattern I create must fit within those boundaries. I then trace the pattern onto the tile with a
grease pencil, and the tile is then cut by hand using a wet band saw designed for cutting tile. The cut tile
is then placed upon the substrate into the correct location.
The pattern tracing and cutting continues until the entire design is finished. It is almost like working with a
puzzle—all pieces work together to achieve connection and flow.
Step 4: Gluing
Each piece is completely floated with ThinSet mortar and placed into position one tile at a time. I do not
take short cuts, which means I do not do spot-gluing, nor do I use adhesives that are not designed for
laying tile. Depending upon the manufacturers specifications, the ThinSet can take from 24 to 36 hours
to cure.
Step 5: Grouting & Sealing
Because my joint size is typically less than 1/8", I use a non-sanded grout. Non-sanded grout is not
abrasive and is smooth to the touch.
The majority of my artwork uses charcoal or black grout. I use powder and not products that provide one-
step applications. The charcoal/black grout sets off my designs and helps to pop the colors.
Once the grout has dried a few hours, the tile is washed and any grout haze is removed. Once the grout
has fully cured, it is sealed with a professional grade grout sealer to resist staining and moisture. If the
piece is not used outdoors, the sealer will hold up for 2-5 years without the need to reseal. If used
outdoors and subject to moisture, the grout should be resealed a minimum of once per year.
Step 6: Finishing the Artwork
The back side of the wall art or table top is the sealed plywood. I then take additional steps to finish the
project. The back is painted with an exterior satin enamel (usually black). Once dry, I sign and date the
piece. The final step is to apply a clear polyacrylic coating. When all is dry, cleaned, and buffed, the
artwork is ready to go.
Table Bases
I have the pleasure of working with local artists and craftpersons to create metal and wood bases for my
tables. I purchase only items that compliment my work and are made with quality materials to ensure
integrity and longevity.
Bistro and Custom Metal Bases
Chico Thomas, SteelSmith, residing in Woodland, Washington creates ornamental ironwork. He has
created numerous custom pieces for clients. The table bases he creates for me are a joint design effort
selecting materials and/or coatings that compliment my tile work. For custom tables, I refer clients to Chico
to create a base if my stock does not meet their needs.
Wood Bases
Outdoor wood furniture can make an excellent base for tiling. I often scout markets and festivals for hand
crafted bases. Occasionally, I'll find a quality piece of manufactured furniture that has seen better times,
but overall construction is excellent. I refinish the piece and install my artwork.
I have the pleasure of working with local artists and craftpersons to create metal and wood bases for my
tables. I purchase only items that compliment my work and are made with quality materials to ensure
integrity and longevity.
Bistro and Custom Metal Bases
Chico Thomas, SteelSmith, residing in Woodland, Washington creates ornamental ironwork. He has
created numerous custom pieces for clients. The table bases he creates for me are a joint design effort
selecting materials and/or coatings that compliment my tile work. For custom tables, I refer clients to Chico
to create a base if my stock does not meet their needs.
Wood Bases
Outdoor wood furniture can make an excellent base for tiling. I often scout markets and festivals for hand
crafted bases. Occasionally, I'll find a quality piece of manufactured furniture that has seen better times,
but overall construction is excellent. I refinish the piece and install my artwork.
Artwork Care & Maintenance
Your artwork is constructed of commercial semi-gloss glazed ceramic decorative tile typically used for
back splashes and other areas that do not incur high impact use. This type of tile would not be used on a
kitchen counter. (Your artwork may also incorporate glass and/or metallic tile). Avoid placing objects with
sharp exposed bases or edges that could damage the surface, and do not drop heavy objects onto the
surface as this may damage the tile.
Do not use any type of abrasive cleaner or cloth to clean the tile as scratching and/or dulling may occur.
Products, such as Simple Green, may mar or remove glaze finishes from natural stone and/or ceramic tile.
A solution of warm water and a little dish soap, followed by drying and buffing with a clean, dry cotton
cloth, should bring your artwork to a brilliant shine. You can purchase a commercial non-acidic tile cleaner
for general-purpose cleaning.
Non-sanded grout has been used to fill the joints. The grout has been sealed with a commercial oil-based
grout sealer. Through normal indoor use and cleaning, the sealer should last 2-5 years without resealing.
If the artwork is placed outdoors or in an area subject to moisture, such as a bathroom, it is recommended
that the grout be resealed on a yearly basis if not sooner. A variety of grout sealers are available at your
local home improvement store or flooring outlet.
Outdoor Use
While great care has been taken in the construction of the artwork, it is recommended that, if used
outdoors, the artwork be placed under cover or in an area not subject to a lot of sun or moisture. Tile will
absorb heat, and the surface can become hot to the touch. During the winter months, or when the
temperature drops significantly (before the first frost), the artwork should be brought indoors to prevent
moisture accumulation and freezing. Even concrete will crack when subjected to extreme changes in
temperature.
Your artwork is constructed of commercial semi-gloss glazed ceramic decorative tile typically used for
back splashes and other areas that do not incur high impact use. This type of tile would not be used on a
kitchen counter. (Your artwork may also incorporate glass and/or metallic tile). Avoid placing objects with
sharp exposed bases or edges that could damage the surface, and do not drop heavy objects onto the
surface as this may damage the tile.
Do not use any type of abrasive cleaner or cloth to clean the tile as scratching and/or dulling may occur.
Products, such as Simple Green, may mar or remove glaze finishes from natural stone and/or ceramic tile.
A solution of warm water and a little dish soap, followed by drying and buffing with a clean, dry cotton
cloth, should bring your artwork to a brilliant shine. You can purchase a commercial non-acidic tile cleaner
for general-purpose cleaning.
Non-sanded grout has been used to fill the joints. The grout has been sealed with a commercial oil-based
grout sealer. Through normal indoor use and cleaning, the sealer should last 2-5 years without resealing.
If the artwork is placed outdoors or in an area subject to moisture, such as a bathroom, it is recommended
that the grout be resealed on a yearly basis if not sooner. A variety of grout sealers are available at your
local home improvement store or flooring outlet.
Outdoor Use
While great care has been taken in the construction of the artwork, it is recommended that, if used
outdoors, the artwork be placed under cover or in an area not subject to a lot of sun or moisture. Tile will
absorb heat, and the surface can become hot to the touch. During the winter months, or when the
temperature drops significantly (before the first frost), the artwork should be brought indoors to prevent
moisture accumulation and freezing. Even concrete will crack when subjected to extreme changes in
temperature.